TEST OF PARALLEL POSTS IN BULLNOSE vs TEST FORUMS

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TEST OF PARALLEL POSTS IN BULLNOSE vs TEST FORUMS

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In this thread/topic I'm going to copy a number of posts from the Bullnose Forum.  That way if Google finds it here but doesn't in the other forum we'll know why.
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Re: TEST OF PARALLEL POSTS IN BULLNOSE vs TEST FORUMS

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Ron - Good question. I've attached 8 pics of the Shapeways bezel.  It is better looking than what the pics imply.  I took them in harsh sunlight coming in at an angle, and that highlighted the roughness that exists.  But, the first one is probably the most representative of what it really looks like.

An observation is that the tops of the letters and the top of the bead are slightly rough, and might not look good when painted.  However, I think we could improve on that significantly by making the letters slightly taller such that they are even with the top of the bead, and then using a file or maybe mounted sandpaper to smooth/flatten both the bead and the tops of the letters.  I'll have to check on the drawing, but it looks like there's maybe .010" of daylight, at most, between the letters and the top of the bead now, so it won't take much.

Otherwise, I'm pleased.  I love that the 1/4-28 nuts go on absolutely perfectly.  They aren't tight and they aren't loose.  They are just perfect.  But, the overall texture of the bezel could be improved.  And I think using Shapeways HP Nylon would smooth things up.  However, I'll need to work with Shapeways to see what needs to be done to the lettering to allow use of HP Nylon.

But, I'd really love to see your comments.  The good, the bad, and the ugly.  Please.  I'd like to get this "right", and your thoughts are needed.  Are the letters "right"?  Are the in the correct places?  etc?

I would like to see the project get finished in a grand way, so am happy to make another run or two in order to smooth things out and get them right.
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Re: TEST OF PARALLEL POSTS IN BULLNOSE vs TEST FORUMS

Gary Lewis
Administrator
There is an active thread called Upgrades To Big Blue For Overlanding?  You are welcome to comment there, but what follows here is my list of to-do's for the truck:

Fix Frame: There is something amiss in the front end 'cause I hear pops when turning corners at low speeds.  I'm guessing that this is either a loose rivet or a crack in the frame at the steering gear box, but it must be fixed as it will get worse if it is a crack.

Seal Engine: The engine leaks from every seam, so needs new front and rear main seals, a new pan and gasket, and the intake needs to be blasted, powder coated, and re-sealed.  And, I have replacement cast aluminum valve covers that I need to blasted, powder coated, and installed assuming I don't go with EFI.  If I do then it will be the valve covers off of Huck that need blasted and PC'd.  All of that will be facilitated by pulling the engine.

Check Engine Out: The engine seems to be dropping a cylinder at idle.  So, while it is on the engine stand I'll run a leak-down check to see if there's a valve leak.

Radiator Support: The existing support has been cut up to route the oil cooler & lines in an improper way, so I need to replace that support with the one that Jonathan gave me.  But, that one needs some small cracks welded or brazed, and it should be blasted and painted.

Oil Cooler: The engine oil cooler was mounted in a location that causes all sorts of problems, so needs to be moved to the stock location as the engine goes back in.

Electrical System: I have the 130a 3G alternator I got from Jim that could go on.  But, I also have the 160a one I built for Dad's truck, so why not use the bigger one on Big Blue since it has two batteries as well as the winch, and will certainly have lots of other electrical items that Dad's truck won't have. But, at the same time I need to replace the ammeter with the voltmeter, add a key-on relay, and eliminate the shunt.  Plus, I need to make the new battery and starter cables (I already have the necessary parts), and install the Cole-Hersee charging solenoid.  And, I need to ensure that the aftermarket voltmeter reads the auxiliary battery since the one in the dash will read the voltage on the primary battery.

Wideband O2 Meter: Why not install the AEM wideband while I have the engine out and the exhaust off?  That will make tuning the carb for altitude changes much easier and more accurate.

Exhaust System: The left-side header is hitting the frame, so while the engine is out I need to shim the mount 1/4".  Or, replace the headers with the exhaust off of Huck, although I think I've read that the FI engines have different exhaust manifolds, so those might not fit.  In any event, install bungs for the O2 sensor while the exhaust is out.

Fuel System: The supply and return lines run very close to the exhaust, and I have a return-style regulator to replace the hot-fuel handling system.  Plus, I want to install a 36 gallon rear tank, so I need a tank-switching valve.  And the front fuel gauge doesn't always work.  So, the fuel system needs sorted.

Brakes: I have the hydro-boost system from Jim, so need to install it, and the best time to do that would be when the engine is out.  One reason for that is because I need to tap into the power steering lines and replace the P/S pump.  Should use the serpentine bracket from Jim as well.

ZF5: While replacing the engine I will also install the ZF5.  And, while that would seem to be a very simple thing, something is bound to require a bit more work than just going back with the T-19.

Cruise Control: Re-install the cruise control bits 'cause it is a looooong way to the North Rim from here!

Weatherstripping: Replace door weatherstripping and window runs as the wind noise is awful and it is a looooong way to the North Rim from here!

Lighting: I need to install headlight relays to ensure the lights get all the juice the system has. And maybe change out the headlights for some that have a bit more brilliance.  Plus, add off-road lights.  Not driving lights per se since we won't be going that fast so don't need to see a long ways, but do need to see well in front and to the sides.  And these will need a relay as well.  So, maybe I need to install one of the Ford relay boxes so I'll have easily-replaced relays and can carry a spare or two.  Should do this as part of the Electrical System upgrades.  Also, I'll need to add better backup lights, so maybe go with the ones Jim used.  Plus, we will need lighting in the bed and to the sides of the truck, and those will need to be fed off of the auxiliary battery so will need a source run.

Air Compressor: We will need an air compressor of some kind to bring the tires back up to spec after airing down to go off-road.  I'd like to fit a York/Tecumseh A/C compressor as the should provide good volume and I have two on the shelf.  Hemmings has an article on these compressors, and Rockcrawler has an article about using them, albeit in a Toy.  And, here's a Youtube about them.
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Re: TEST OF PARALLEL POSTS IN BULLNOSE vs TEST FORUMS

Gary Lewis
Administrator
My 4-door diesel project has a hopeless case of what Gary would call scope creep.
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Re: TEST OF PARALLEL POSTS IN BULLNOSE vs TEST FORUMS

Gary Lewis
Administrator
testing